With the approach of Tet, we had made the decision to head out of Vietnam and visit the neighbouring country of Cambodia. We set off early to catch the bus that would take us out of Saigon, sharing the road with other travelers escaping the city. After about four hours we were at the border and it was "everyone off the bus", said in a language we didn't understand, so we just followed. The bus was unpacked and we had to present to the Vietnamese immigration officials. That done, it was back on the bus for a few hundred yards, then off the bus again to present to Cambodian immigration. Then back on the bus again, that was our exercise for the day. In all I think it was about a six hour bus ride that took us through rural Cambodia, a pretty, green countryside with villages of stilted houses dotting the roadside, heading toward Phnom Penh.
Along the way we saw some sights, a twelve seater van crammed with 23 people (my count as we passed slowly) 3 motor bikes, a bicycle, the baggage and a few hens tied on. At the ferry crossing we followed a ute piled incredibly high with chooks, all alive but tied, hanging, those over the exhaust pipe hopefully provided a quick death. In a field were two little boys having a great time larking around on the backs of water buffalo. The threat of land mines is still very real and the cities had more than their fair share of the victims.
Arrival in Phnom Penh opened another world. Once settled in our hotel, we took off to explore a city that we both found
dirty and depressing. There is an obvious sex trade providing income for young males, as some rather sleazy looking westerners walk the streets with young boys. The sight of children begging for food or money while we sat at our restaurant table brought tears. I had just spent a few weeks in Australia with my grandchildren who are well protected and want for nothing and the contrast to these vulnerable young kids, dirty, hungry and desperate was just heart breaking. We bought bananas to offer as we walked the streets and were approached by hungry children, but they ran out before the hands stopped reaching up.Our day tour the following day also brought tears. The Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng Prison brought to life the agony and suffering of the Cambodians at the hand of Pol Pot's regime. The glass panels of the memorial stupa show the skulls of some of the 17,000 people who met their fate here and are buried in the mass graves. The quiet peaceful surroundings disguise the horror. S-21 had been the prison holding these souls as they were interrogated and tortured. Originally a high school it was converted
with barbed wire and bars to a hell hole. Scribbled on wall a message from someone else who was shocked by the place, "When this was a prison, nobody learned. When this was a school, nobody died".We were glad to leave Phnom Penh behind and arrived in Siem Reap to be enthralled. Obviously thriving with the tourist dollar, this town catered well. It was cleaner, friendlier and a beautiful gateway to Angkor and the ancient temples. We spent a day with an official and very informative guide who told us all the secrets of the temples. French explorers had re-discovered these temples in the 19th century but during various conflicts they had been deserted. Now they are awake and the life blood to Siem Reap with 2 million foreign visitors tramping the dusty trails last year.
Entry to the temples is well organized. You must purchase a ticket which is printed with your photo and must be presented on request. This ancient capital of Cambodia is well protected and cared for. One million people used to live in this vast area as one king after another tried to outdo his predecessor building something bigger and better. Originally, as wars were had over land ownership, Cambodia included Southern Vietnam and part of Burma.
Archaeologists are still working on different sites throughout the area but there was little that was off limits. Blocks of sandstone fit together tightly creating enormous towers and steep steps encourage you to go higher to see what is at the top. At the Temple of Bayon, faces look down on you, enigmatic smiles keeping a secret of some kind. Carved into some of the sandstone blocks are stories in pictures, telling of legends, myths and wars. The stone is worn, more in some places than other, covered with stains from years of weather and exposure. At Ta Prohm nature has reclaimed the stone, large trees embracing the walls of this jungle temple. Hollywood has visited this spot with it featuring in the movie Tomb Raider. Among the other visitor the day we were there, were saffron robed Buddhist monks who seemed to blend so well with this peaceful atmosphere. These young men were probably trying to sneak moments of quiet contemplation but it was as though they were part of a theme park, walking
among the ancient twisting tree roots.Refreshed with food and drink at lunch, the afternoon was filled with a wander around Angkor Wat, the largest of the temples. Reflected in the surrounding moat, it was a sight I've seen before in the travel pages but the real thing is nothing but breathtaking. The sight was enough to spur us on and into the hot sun to wander the ancient paving. I can't describe how exciting it was. But by this stage Chum, our guide, was getting weary. He had seen and said it millions of times before, so once he had done the introductory spiel, we left him sitting in the shade as we explored.
These ancient cities are not small and it is amazing that they could be built without modern technology. The stone was sourced 50 miles away and fits together with snug precision to built the walls and towers. It is purely amazing.
We have to go back, one day is not long enough to see all that this place has to offer. We only walked the major temples but there are more further afield that have secrets to share.
