Photos from Sapa

It's Cold In Them There Hills

I never thought I'd say it here, but I've just spent a few days freezing to the bone. I took off to Sapa, in the northern highlands. James had to work, so I was on my own.
My flight to Hanoi was straight after work on Sunday and I arrived up there just as it was getting dark. Took a taxi into the Old Quarter, a big touristy area. Wandered around the shops until it started to rain, as it always is at that time of night in Hanoi. So, I decided to head to the train station.
My ticket was for a "soft sleeper" on the overnight train. This was the only part of my little holiday I wasn't looking forward to. Because I was traveling alone, I was more than anxious about who I would be sharing the four berth cabin with. All sorts of things were going through my mind. I spent about an hour in the "Passenger Waiting Hall" and between reading my book, watching some drunk guy trying to get on the train before everyone else, only to be unceremoniously thrown out. The other entertainment was two little boys who spent that whole time sliding a shoe between each other on the floor, something so simple but had them engrossed for ages. Onto the train and wow, was I surprised. James and I had traveled by train here in Vietnam before and this train was a real step up. And, even better, I had the cabin all to myself. So I locked the door and was rocked off to sleep as we made our way toward Lao Cai, a little town which is on the Chinese boarder and a stepping stone to Sapa. Woken at 5am with a light knock on the door and outside it was a misty, cold morning.
A minibus took me and a dozen others on the winding road to Sapa. It was like the Great Ocean Road (without the sea) mixed with Devil's Elbow. A few of the passengers were using the small plastic bags supplied and disposing of them out the window. Pity the poor bugger on a motorbike traveling behind us.
Sapa was settled by the French in the early 1900's and sits on the top of a hill with some spectacular scenery. I was there in the off season, apparently it is the destination of thousands through the summer, the cooler climate attracting the Vietnamese. And cold it was. I don't have any winter clothes here and found the purchase of a jumper in Hanoi brilliant planning.
I checked into a hotel and wandered out to explore. Well, I tried to get out. At the bottom of the steps I was surrounded by a group of very persistent women who were well versed in the spirit of free trade. Although most of these local people have had little formal education and are illiterate, their command of English is quite good. Buy from me, why you buy from her and not me, you want to buy blanket, maybe you buy from me later, buy from me for baby...are all spoken fluently with crisp pronunciation and emotion. 10 out of 10.
There are two main ethnic groups, the Black H'mong and the Red Dzao. They live in little primitive villages in the surrounding mountains and the tourists provide most of their income. The women of the Red Dzao shave their eyebrows and the front of their hairline and wear what can only be called a big red billowing headdress decorated with beads and tassels. They wear lots of silver decorating their clothes and are a fantastic sight around the town. The Black H'mong wear....guess...black. They dye their clothes from the indigo plant which grows in the mountains. The length of time that they boil the hemp fabric determines if the clothes are a dark blue or black. The women wear a tunic and wrap lengths of black fabric around their legs for warmth. Again there is silver jewelery and either baskets full of wares or babies tied to their backs.
On my first day I took a Honda taxi to check out the sights. Because of the increase of tourism in the area, some of the roads have been upgraded, but I don't think my driver knew where they were. Before we took off, we stopped at this house so he could get me a helmet (always need one of those to feel safe). This was secured under my chin with a strip of fabric, well the thought was there.
This ride was well worth it. Zac, obviously his acquired English name, took me up through the mountains and some of the most spectacular scenery of valleys and terraced hillsides. My only regret was that the weather wasn't better, but the rolling cloud and thin mist did add to the experience. I was tempted with the offer of, for a few more dollars, a visit to one of the villages. What the heck, off we went. He took me to this incredibly primitive village which obviously wasn't frequented by many tourists. Zac told me to go into one of the houses, rather intrusive I thought, and so did the lady who lived there. I didn't feel comfortable with going in but could see the dark interior was little more than a rammed dirt floor, a fire in the middle of the room and no obvious comforts. This experience of wandering around the tiny village was the highlight of my little holiday.
The next day, rather than doing one of the many treks on offer from the local tour companies, my luck would be to fall and break an ankle, I hired a jeep and English speaking guide to go to another 2 villages. Well, two out of three's not bad. Yes, it was a jeep, we did go to 2 villages, but English was a language to which my guide could only shrug a response. This was a more enterprising arrangement, with these villages accepting bus loads of tourists and having a tourist centre and merchandise centre. Here it was acceptable to venture past the threshold and there was nothing that gave a hint of creature comforts. Again the dirt floor, beds a platform of timber covered in blankets, two low wooden chairs and a fire burning in a pit in the centre of the room. Grandmothers play a big part in childcare here, most having a child on their back or hip. If the child is tied to the back, there is a piece of plastic protecting from any little accidents because nappies are not part of the attire.
When I got back to town, I ran the gauntlet and made some of the local women happy with my souvenir purchases. They sell a lot of beautiful hand embroidered clothes, bags, cushion covers and blankets. There is also trade in silver bangles and earrings. I just had to remember that what I bought, I carried.....but my small case had wheels. The women sit in the street working away on small pieces of cloth, but the dye from the fabric turns their hands blue. Needless to say, I wrapped everything before I put them in my bag. The craft of needlework is taught from a young age and all female members of the family are involved in the industry.
I wandered around the town, it is steep but alive with a mingling of tourists and locals. The market sells fresh fruit and veggies along with handicrafts. There are plenty of hotels and restaurants to meet the tourists needs. I just loved it and have promised James that we will both seek refuge from the heat there in summer.
I did the return journey, again lucky to have the train cabin to myself. I found Hanoi Airport not very welcoming at 5am, especially when my flight wasn't until 10.30. I managed to get an earlier flight, we boarded at 8.15, only to have to get off again straight away, apparently a security matter, a passenger had got on, then decided to get off again, so the pilot refused to fly....bugger. I had met up with a young Aussie couple and these events brought the girl to tears. It seemed she was already terrified of flying and was now saying to her boyfriend that it was all his fault that they were going to die. I think she was a bit of a fragile thing, they went on a home stay and16 km trek not knowing it was that long (derrrr....read the brochure). She stopped half way, refusing to go further and just sat in tears. She thought the jeep was going to pick them up and was not happy when she found out she had to walk back the next day. Anyway, no sooner were we off than we were back on again, the pilot happy to fly. When we took off, there was turbulence and a glance toward my new young friend showed a red face streaming tears and the boyfriend stroking her head. When we landed, she was first off.
I was home in time to empty my bags onto the floor, shower and off to work on the back of a bike. It was only a few days but it seemed like a week. It was great and I highly recommend a visit to that rooftop town with lots discover.

Hello Again

Hi Everybody
I know it isn't all that long since I'd sat here writing, but it is late at home and if I phone I will wake everyone up. I have this urge to touch home base, so thought I'd fill you in on our latest escapades. I don't think I need to tell you that we are still captivated with this country and we think you should all experience it. People here are all so friendly and apart from missing our darling family and friends, we are very happy here.
James and I had a night away last week, took off to a place called Vung Tau. I discovered after we had been there that the Australian forces had a base there during the American war. Vung Tau is a beach-side city about a 90 minute hydrofoil ride down the Saigon River from Ho Chi Minh City. We set off after work on Sunday and were settled in our hotel in time to have a nice walk up the beach,
We must have looked like tourists because the taxi driver, after trying to get us to go to another hotel other than the one we'd chosen, tried to charge us 380,000 dong rather than 38,000 dong. Needless to say, I told him where to go, in true Aussie style. Cheeky bugger!
The beach washes up water from the South China Sea and compared to Australian beaches was very poor . The sand was scattered with rubbish from the throngs of people who sit here and there was an obvious residue of oil from the off shore oil rigs. The locals were oblivious to this and splashed happily in the waves. Along the beach are people hiring beach chairs and the vendors who frequent the streets in the city, were also there on the sand. Groups of young men formed teams to play friendly soccer and children were happy to be buried in the sand......very much like a popular beach anywhere.
Up on the hill overlooking the beach is a huge statue of Jesus, arms outstretches. apparently you can climb up and out onto His shoulders. If He was to turn His head to the left, He could gaze out onto a Buddhist pagoda which sits on a tiny island just off the beach. Rather curious, the mix of religions within a stones throw.
The streets here are wide and hardly any traffic. We laughed at how easy it was to cross the road, compared to what we have become used to. Once it had become dark, I think everybody else had made their way back to HCMC. We found a delightful restaurant on the roof of a shopping centre. It was great, the cool breeze, fairy lights, western music and mango smoothies......bliss.
We spent our time just lazing on the beach, reading our books and soaking up the sun and sea air. It was a 24hour chill-out which was great for the soul. But we had to come back, James had work on Tuesday, so we caught the hydrofoil back down the river to Ho Chi Minh City. And back into the traffic. The first thing we had to do was manage to cross the road and with that, we knew we were back.
We are hoping that we are going to be able to make time for another little break but James is now working 7 days a week. Some days are only a few hours but unfortunately cuts into the day. Since taking the part-time work with RMIT James is happier. He says it is just like walking into a little piece of Australia.
We will be working over Christmas, although the schools have Christmas parties and concerts, they don't actually celebrate the day with a holiday. We are planning dinner at the Sheraton with a group of other Aussies. I've found a Christmas shop and put up a few decorations today, rather poor compared to home but still should herald in the season.
So, with Christmas not far away, I dare say we will be missing home even more. So send lots of emails. The one thing that we are giggling about is....you poor things are suffering all the hype that goes with the Federal election....so we are one up on you!
Hope to hear from you all before Christmas...till then...cheers
Di and James

Less Work More Play

Maple Bear, the kindergarten I was working in, has fallen to finance. The boss (a Vietnamese Canadian) had found that profit was slow coming, so decided to shelve the idea. There are advantages to having your hours cut, well at least for me anyway. I left James at home working a few weeks ago and took off with Leigh, another Australian nurse pretending to be an English teacher. We caught an early bus to Mui Ne Beach, a 20km stretch of white sandy beach about 4 hours north. The bus was cheap ($8US return) but really good and delivered us to the door of our hotel.
A small, modest, family run establishment, it was right on the beach, I mean rooms literally overhanging the sand. Again inexpensive, $20US for a twin room (Prices are for those of you planning a holiday, so you can get an idea of costs) I was excited when I realised it was an inner-spring mattress, we have solid foam at home. But when I looked and saw the tiled bed-head, I checked out the base and it was concrete with pretty tiles. They are big on tiles here. Never mind it was comfortable and we had the sound of the waves to lull us off to sleep.
We were eager to explore so out we went to the nearest tour office. Here we hired a jeep for $30 and a private tour. By this time it was 1pm so all the bigger tour buses had done their thing. First stop was the lying Buddha on top of TA Cu Mountain. Yes, on top. A cable car took us most of the way, but then I found out how unfit I am as Leigh climbed ahead of the millions of steps. The advantage being that I kept stopping to take in the view, and how spectacular it was. We could have had a good view from the cable car, but with Vietnamese logic, the windows were covered with advertising stickers.
The big white Buddha at the top made the climb worth while. We were the only ones there, perhaps the climb put others off, but it was so serene, a cool breeze and no noise. No wonder Buddha was asleep. I think that was the highlight of our little holiday. You can just see Leigh standing next to his toes in the photo, so you have an idea of how big he is.
Back down the mountain, much easier, and on to some Cham Towers just out of a town called Phan Thiet. This town is the fish sauce capital of the country and boy, did it pong! Like dirty undies and sneakers mixed together. Fortunately we moved quickly through here on our way back to Mui Ne.
Next morning up at 4.30 for sun rise at the Red Sand Dunes. Not too spectacular but had fun talking to kids trying to convince us to ride down the sand dunes on plastic sheets, of course, for a fee. Imagine that, me sliding down a sandy slope, I had enough trouble walking down them. This holiday gave my ankle a real work out. In the back of the jeep again and onto the White Sand Dunes, more worth the trek around a lake and up the hills. Just beautiful. In the distance we could see a bride and groom having their wedding photos taken, that would be great. Apparently, a few weeks before the ceremony, the bride and groom dress up, the whole bit and have their photos done. Then at the reception, the photos are on show. Guess you get everyone to see them that way. The soil around here is so diverse, white through to red, more like central Australia.
Back towards the hotel, through Mui Ne village and we stopped to look at the hundred of aqua blue and red fishing boats in the bay, quite a sight. They also have boats called coracles. These are big round woven baskets, paddled with one oar. Buggered if I'd go out to sea in one, but they are obviously efficient.
When we were back at the hotel, we had nothing to do but sit on the beach and wait for the bus. Leigh went for a dip but said she was sharing the waves with plastic bags etc so I stayed where I was. It was really relaxing and even better to have that nice clean air to breath.
The bus picked us up and we were back toward town. James had been working away and still wasn't home from work when I got there. He now has a part-time job with RMIT (Vietnam's Australian university) so hopefully that will be more his style than little kids who need help to the toilet.
We are still finding new things to see and do, saving lots of ideas for those who wish to visit us here. Our roof top garden has several chairs now, so we can have visitors relax up there with a beer. And we have fairy lights for night time. The wet season is slowly finishing and we have noticed that the days and nights are cooler.
James has had his first accident on the bike, got hit by a guy going around a round-about. Took a roll and, fortunately, was missed by the other bikes and is safe and sound. He was very lucky. I've given my Honda driver the sack, swapped him for one who doesn't drive like a maniac or smell of alcohol. The other guy was just too scary.
But apart from that, there is not a lot more to say. So it is bye till the next blog.
Di and James

The Things......

The Things I've Seen
Five adult men on a motorbike....that is ....all on the same motorbike.
A three story house knocked down in two days with the team using nothing but sledge hammers and cane baskets.
A Vietnamese boy with Downs Syndrome...you may ask how I could tell.
The guys from the electricity company working on the power lines, in the rain.
Live eels in the local market.
Live frogs tied to string, all trying to hop in different directions while awaiting selection at a street-side restaurant.
A guy with one leg driving a motorbike with his crutches slung over his shoulder.
A Vietnamese dwarf...surprisingly he did stand out among all of these petite people.
A huge bundle of steel reinforcing rod being transported by bicycle.
A little guy carrying our home-delivered plants up three flights of stairs to the rooftop.(Check out the size of them in the photos)

The Things I've Done.
Happy Hour on the 23rd floor of the Sheraton Hotel, spectacular view and half price cocktails.
Ridden on the back of a bike through flooded streets.
Climbed millions of stairs
Been to the hairdresser and had my hair washed while sitting (upright) in front of the mirror.
Been out with the Hash House Harriers (a group who describe themselves as "Drinkers with a running problem")
Sat by a stream watching the most vibrant coloured bird dive for bugs in the water.
Purchased prescription drugs over the counter, without a prescription.
(James has had a game of golf at the Vietnam Golf and Country Club....and loved it. But then again, have never heard him say he hasn't enjoyed a game.)


The Things I've Said
Hello.
How much?
No, too much!!
Hello.
Look out!!!
Hello.
No thank you.
*$%#!!!!!
(James quote"I'm learning a lot about kids")

The Things I've Wanted To Cry At
The children begging in the street on my walk home from work.
The guy begging in the main street who looks like he has fallen face first into a fire.
The obvious poverty and conditions that some people live in.

The Things I've Really Laughed At
A live eel escaping from a plastic shopping bag, at the traffic lights, with the owner then trying to get it back in the bag, so he could take it home for tea.
James teaching a friend to drive a motorbike after a few drinks, at about midnight, in our darkened alley.
A little boy in my class pronouncing "Miss" with an exaggeration of the sss sound by shaking his head violently and falling off his seat.

Still Here and Still Loving It

Hi Everyone, yep, we are still here and still finding something new to do everyday.
At the moment I am sitting waiting for the lights to go out because we're in the middle of a thunder storm, it is bucketing down. James is at work and will probably be riding home in it. We have seen on the English news the devastation caused by the typhoon up north from here. I can not feel anything but pain for those people because they live simply, to loose so much at nature's hand must be demoralizing for them.
But, on a brighter note..... What's new? Well. I have started teaching in Maple Bear, a new kindergarten at City Smart. The children are aged from 2 years to 5 years and really with no communicating English to speak of, unless you want to know their name or how old they are. So, imagine me with 8 kids, no common language, one child who isn't properly toilet trained and poos on the floor, another who has a fascination for my boobs and keeps touching them and an expectation that I am going to instill in these children a level of usable English. I am anxiously awaiting a DVD of the Wiggles from Australia. I figure if I sit them in front of the telly, at lease I will remain sane. Actually, I lie, they are a pure delight with the same child like innocence of children world wide. But I didn't lie about the kid who poos everywhere, they don't wear undies, just shorts and of course it falls out. But that is enough of that.
I am working 4 hours a day, Tues to Sun, in the kindergarten and with a few classes of older kids included. I have given a challenge to the oldest children I teach. I've said I will teach them English if they teach me Vietnamese. I can say "hello, my name is Diane" and that was with homework. James has changed schools and I think is a little happier with a more organized institute. We do have slightly different schedules with James working into the evenings a few days a week. But we have the afternoons on weekends and all day Monday plus a few hours in the middle of the day.
In our free time together we get out and about. We have discovered a great little cafe around the corner from school, they have western music playing through the day and live piano and violin at night. It is very relaxing and they meet my addiction for mango smoothies.
We have also made friends with a few Aussie girls who are a lot of fun. We have dinner or drinks together every now and then. They were here last week and after a few drinks (they discovered that I had a bottle of scotch) and at about midnight, James was out in the alley teaching one of them to ride the bike....now there is a scary thought...but they had helmets.
I have found the Viet equivalent of Bunnings Garden Centre and am helping the local economy. A lady who lives around the corner gave me the address and I took off on the back of a Honda om (motorbike taxi) without a helmet....risky stuff. Anyway we got their safely and although I wanted a normal taxi home, he insisted on waiting and even helped me with my plant selection. I spent the equivalent to $16 and had 4 big shopping bags of plants. My "driver" loaded them onto the bike, one on each handle bar, one perched on the top of the handle bars, one between his legs, and me (without helmet) on the back....what must it have looked like! Anyway, I've had my fix of playing with dirt and now have to wait until I have some more potting mix. With the scarcity of land here, I wonder what a bag of potting mix will cost.
Got our water rates for a month today. James said he was lucky he had the money in the house, they collect it at the door. It cost us 20,000 dong for the month.....that is $2. Reckon we might stay here forever if utilities are that cheap. Maybe not, I miss .... family and friends (thank God for Skype), carpet, my pillow, my dishwasher, guttering, a kitchen that is just a kitchen, not also doubling as laundry with bathroom on the side, only having to turn one key to get into the house ( 3 padlocks and a front door are really hard work when you are busting for the loo) We have found black shoe laces rarer than hens teeth here. James broke the ones in his dress shoes and it is virtually impossible to get replacements. The closest I've found is black hat elastic, that was better than white sneaker laces. Shoes are so cheap, they probably chuck them out when the laces break, but most people wear slip-on shoes.
I have just has four kids talking to me through the gate. They are out in the rain, soaked, but have visited us before. Their dialogue is always the same....what is your name? where are you from? I think that is all they have learnt so far.
I have made a few friends on my walk to and from school. Everyone seems to be out early in the morning. I leave our front door and head down the alley. Around the corner is the lady who has a little stall at her front door. Here, a pot boils away with I don't know what in it. She only nods, I guess she realizes there is no chance of selling me her wares. A little further up are a group of old gentlemen who sit on plastic folding chairs, not caring that they are in Woolies style mens pyjamas. They seem to stay in their jammies all day. They watch, obviously wondering who I am and where I'm going, but I never get a response to my hello. Then, on the corner is Lin. She is a lady probably around my age and lots of fun. She will see me coming and sing out "Hello Di" to which I dutifully reply "Hello Lin" then she says "where are you going" I say "to work at the school", she says "Oh" and that is it. Rehearsed every day. But she will wave, proud of her mastering of the English language. I've tried to teach her G'day but it is not a happening thing. Opposite her is a tarp spread on the ground with fresh fruit for sale, transported in big open weave baskets on the back of a bike. The sales lady sits against the wall, just waiting till someone buys something. Then I make my way past the tin shed that I think houses a family of about 5, past another boiling pot of something that I think should not be for human consumption and on to the wave from the security guy who sits under an umbrella watching the bikes belonging to the school staff. I'm there. Up the stairs and into the classroom that also doubles as the kindergarten. The kids are always excited when I get there and I must say, I'm happy to get there too.
The rain has stopped, and James will be home soon. Guess I should hang the washing under the ceiling fan and then unlock all those padlocks for him.
So, till next time.
Love Di and James